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10 tips for handling big waves

obig-waveTranslation: Heido Sundstrom


Everyone that has ever surfed a wave has most likely enjoyed it, but there are times when we lose our balance and fall (the “wipeout”). If it’s a small or medium-sized wave, it’s generally not a big deal. Bigger waves, however, require a little more preparation.

The extreme surfers that like to tackle something as challenging as big waves have learned how to be prepared to face these grand occasions, with a perfect balance between physical and mental preparation. They must discipline themselves and work daily in order to achieve their goal of surfing big waves.

Riding a big wave of 25 – 30 ft. is a huge challenge that can only be achieved with the security of being prepared for it. There’s a lot at stake when catching a giant wave, the speed of the ride (which can reach up to 50 mph), the face of the wave, as well as listening to the roar of the wave crashing behind you and chasing you at great speeds.

Some of the greatest big-wave surfers, including: Brock Little, Laird Hamilton, Shane Dorian, Garrett McNamara, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Beca Washburn, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Jay Moriarty, Jeff Clark, Mike Parsons, Peter Mel and Ross Clarke share some important tips so that you too can become a big-wave rider (or, simply take their advice into consideration in case you ever find yourself in trouble when faced with a big wave).

1.    Never take the first wave in a large, incoming set. It’s hard to resist a good wave when you’ve been waiting for over 10 minutes and the adrenaline is pumping through your body. The problem is, if you lose your balance and wipe out, you’re exposed to the entire set of waves that could come crashing down on top of you, pushing you below the surface as you’re caught in the impact zone.
2.    Let the flow of the water control the movement of your body. If you fall into the wave, don’t resist the power of the crashing water because you could lose energy and oxygen while fighting. It’s always better to curl into a fetal position and let the water carry you.
3.    Always use a life jacket. A life jacket can save your life by helping you get to the surface fast after you’ve gone underwater.
4.    Don’t panic. Let fear do its job and resist the urge to panic. Panic attacks are characterized by a fear of disaster or of losing control, even when there is no real danger. You do not want that. On the other hand, fear is a healthy mechanism of basic survival. Fear can be a good thing and should be taken into consideration when facing big waves.
5.    Clear your mind in order to find the most intelligent way out of the problem. Know the ocean floor and visualize the behavior of the wave before being rescued.
6.    Learn to jump feet-first away from or to the side of your board. Avoid diving headfirst into the water, protect your head, keep calm and open your eyes under water.
7.    Never go out alone on a big-wave day. If something goes wrong, you won’t have a jet ski to come to your rescue. Trying to paddle your way out is probably the worst mistake a big-wave surfer can make, always go out with a partner that can tow you with their jet ski.      
8.    Study the ocean’s currents, its bottom surfaces and the wave’s peak before paddling. Remember that knowledge is power. Before paddling, take the time to gather all the information possible about the spot; it will greatly reduce your level of anxiety.
9.    Learn how to read and keep track of weather and swell maps. The science of surfing will help you choose the right spot, day and time to fight against the great “titans of the ocean”. Nowadays, there are many surf forecast books on the market and a plethora of information available.
10.    Practice Yoga and Pilates, improve your eating habits and increase your lung capacity. Stretching, relaxation and increasing the amount of air that your lungs can absorb before a fall is as important as creating a relaxed mindset when riding big waves.

The legend of Eddie Aikau premieres on ESPN

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Translation: Heido Sundstrom


ESPN launches a documentary on the life and work of Eddie Aikau, the Hawaiian icon and “King” of Waimea Bay known for riding big waves and being a pioneer of lifeguards. Aikau was killed in a rescue attempt after the sinking of the Polynesian Voyaging Canoe “Hokulea” in 1978.

With more than 10 years in the lifeguard tower at Waimea Bay, and with over 500 rescues, Aikau worked hard to keep his waters under tight watch, no matter how much time that required. The way in which he died—paddling against wind and sea in an attempt to save his crewmates of the Hokulea is a testament to his dedication. Eddie Aikau’s body was never found, making him a hero and a legend in his own right.

Directed by Sam George and with a solid mix of archival footage, dramatic performances, contemporary interviews and historical materials, this documentary is sure to appeal to any surf history buff. With a meticulous investigation of Hawaii, this film is a testament that tells of the tragic fall and extraordinary renaissance of Hawaiian culture, personified by a Native whose dynamic life and heroic death served as an inspiration to an entire spiritual movement.    

2013 National Children and youth surfing games rescheduled

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Translation: Heido Sundstrom


Due to the recent events caused by Tropical Storm Manuel and Hurricane Ingrid, the organizing committee for the 2013 National Children and Youth Surfing Games and the Historic Revolcadero Festival reported that the events are to be rescheduled for November 29th – December 1st, 2013 at a beach that still has yet to be determined but will be located in the Diamond Zone of Acapulco, Guerrero. Likely beaches include: Revolcadero, Muelle de Punto Muerto or Bonfil.

The organizing committee, led by Ernesto Trujillo Roman and Eveleidy Alvarez had a meeting with the Mayor, Licentiate Luis Walton, as well as City Councilman and Social Advisor, Wulfrano Salgado Romero, who reiterated their support for the production of this National event, which, without a doubt, will revive the economic, sporting and tourist activity that is emerging in Acapulco after the natural disaster that occurred.

It’s been more than a decade since the last National Surfing Games was held in Acapulco and, finally, this year it will be a reality, thanks to the support of Mayor Luis Walton, City Councilman Wulfrano Salgado, the Director of the Municipal Youth Institute, Kristian Vargas Rodriguez, as well as support from the Private Sector. The states that have been invited to the event include: Baja California, Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Colima, Jalisco, Michoacan, Tamaulipas, Veracruz, Oaxaca, Quintana Roo, Distrito Federal and the host state of Guerrero. Each will compete in a total of nine categories that include: Women’s and Men’s Short board and Bodyboard.

This will be an important trigger for the Port of Acapulco and, since it’s a juvenile event, the best junior surfers and promising young talent of our national sport will prove that there is a good crop of athletes coming up that will put the name of Mexico on high. Local, state, national and international media, like specialized magazines and websites, will broadcast the exploits of these young extreme athletes.

There will also be other activities like releasing turtles from the turtle camp, Playa Hermosa, a graffiti exhibition, a bikini contest, live music and other activities that are sure to keep the crowd entertained. 

FRIDAY THE 13th—SURFERS TO THE RESCUE

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Translation: Heido Sundstrom


Tropical Storm “Manuel” in the Pacific and Hurricane “Ingrid” in the Gulf of Mexico made for a lethal combination in low-lying areas, banks and lagoons in Acapulco, Guerrero.

Irregular land settlements, permits from the government allowing construction on wetlands, corruption, lack of a disaster-prevention culture and many other factors contributed to the fact that a portion of Acapulco lay underwater.

The government’s slow response to assist the population led to the citizens coming together in rescue efforts. Anonymous heroes and others recognized by the media emerged from the disaster. The surfers took their boards but not to catch waves, instead to rescue the people whose houses were flooded and paddle them to shelter.

There were also the volunteer lifeguards from the Zona Diamante, many of whom are surfers and understand the ocean’s currents. They were given the task of helping the population with their longboards, jet skis, canoes and motorboats, risking their lives by facing currents that ran through the streets, walking and swimming in the water, in the mud, sometimes sinking up to their waists and risking crocodile attacks due to the high waters that prompted the reptiles out of their natural habitat, the “Laguna Negra” (“Black Lagoon”) of Puerto Marquez. These volunteer lifeguards are largely neglected by the government and promised seasonal work but have yet to receive any kind of compensation to date.

Others organized donation centers, inviting the Acapulco surfing community to support those who were hit hard by the flooding. Surfers supporting and standing in solidarity, while many others are totally unaware of the problem. Many have come together, though, helping in the recovery efforts in their community and town, as the beaches lay littered with trash, logs and trees that cover the sand.

These stories have come to light over the last few days, revealing brave acts, heroic efforts and selfless heroes.

 

Dylan southworth, horacio garcia, jose luis caselin, Alfredo salafranca and ryan helm are recognized By the mexican federation of surfing

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Translation: Heido Sundstrom


At a gala dinner and emotional ceremony held at the Rosarito Beach Hotel on Friday, September 6th, 2013, the Mexican Surfing Federation celebrated 50 years of surfing in Mexico. For a little over 50 years, various North Americans have crossed the border into Baja California, Mexico with their trucks and campers in search of perfect waves. Ignacio Felix Cota is one of Mexico’s surfing pioneers and was there to celebrate the festivities. President of the Mexican Surfing Federation, Luis Skeen, and Secretary, Alfonso Polidura, were also in attendance and presented the 2013 Surfer of the Year Award to Dylan Southworth of Nayarit.

Southworth is the 2012/2013 National Open Champion, a title won in the National Games in Mazatlan, Sinaloa last year. In April, he won the Acapulco Open Pro and placed 25th in Chiba, Japan in a WQS event of the ASP in May. Also in May, he placed 16th in the World Surfing Championship in Santa Catalina, Panama. He’s quite active in both ASP and ALAS contests and this award proved to be a just and well-deserved recognition for the surfer.

Another well-deserved recognition went to Horacio “Chachin” Garcia for his great work as the head of the National Stand-Up Paddle crew that includes: Jose Luis Caselin, Alfredo Salafranca and Ryan Helm, all of whom helped the Mexican SUP team to place third in the Team Category, winning Mexico’s first bronze medal at the World Games. Fernando Stalla also won a medal as an individual competitor and the other heroes on the team included: Guillermo Cadena, Hector Gonzalez, Karen Jacobson, Fernando Stalla, Javier Jimenez, Martha Diaz, Diego Cadena, Antonio Valdez, Risa Mara Machuca and Veronica Nava.

Planeta Surf joins this celebration in congratulating all the winners. 

 

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