10 tips for handling big waves
Translation: Heido Sundstrom
Everyone that has ever surfed a wave has most likely enjoyed it, but there are times when we lose our balance and fall (the “wipeout”). If it’s a small or medium-sized wave, it’s generally not a big deal. Bigger waves, however, require a little more preparation.
The extreme surfers that like to tackle something as challenging as big waves have learned how to be prepared to face these grand occasions, with a perfect balance between physical and mental preparation. They must discipline themselves and work daily in order to achieve their goal of surfing big waves.
Riding a big wave of 25 – 30 ft. is a huge challenge that can only be achieved with the security of being prepared for it. There’s a lot at stake when catching a giant wave, the speed of the ride (which can reach up to 50 mph), the face of the wave, as well as listening to the roar of the wave crashing behind you and chasing you at great speeds.
Some of the greatest big-wave surfers, including: Brock Little, Laird Hamilton, Shane Dorian, Garrett McNamara, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Beca Washburn, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Jay Moriarty, Jeff Clark, Mike Parsons, Peter Mel and Ross Clarke share some important tips so that you too can become a big-wave rider (or, simply take their advice into consideration in case you ever find yourself in trouble when faced with a big wave).
1. Never take the first wave in a large, incoming set. It’s hard to resist a good wave when you’ve been waiting for over 10 minutes and the adrenaline is pumping through your body. The problem is, if you lose your balance and wipe out, you’re exposed to the entire set of waves that could come crashing down on top of you, pushing you below the surface as you’re caught in the impact zone.
2. Let the flow of the water control the movement of your body. If you fall into the wave, don’t resist the power of the crashing water because you could lose energy and oxygen while fighting. It’s always better to curl into a fetal position and let the water carry you.
3. Always use a life jacket. A life jacket can save your life by helping you get to the surface fast after you’ve gone underwater.
4. Don’t panic. Let fear do its job and resist the urge to panic. Panic attacks are characterized by a fear of disaster or of losing control, even when there is no real danger. You do not want that. On the other hand, fear is a healthy mechanism of basic survival. Fear can be a good thing and should be taken into consideration when facing big waves.
5. Clear your mind in order to find the most intelligent way out of the problem. Know the ocean floor and visualize the behavior of the wave before being rescued.
6. Learn to jump feet-first away from or to the side of your board. Avoid diving headfirst into the water, protect your head, keep calm and open your eyes under water.
7. Never go out alone on a big-wave day. If something goes wrong, you won’t have a jet ski to come to your rescue. Trying to paddle your way out is probably the worst mistake a big-wave surfer can make, always go out with a partner that can tow you with their jet ski.
8. Study the ocean’s currents, its bottom surfaces and the wave’s peak before paddling. Remember that knowledge is power. Before paddling, take the time to gather all the information possible about the spot; it will greatly reduce your level of anxiety.
9. Learn how to read and keep track of weather and swell maps. The science of surfing will help you choose the right spot, day and time to fight against the great “titans of the ocean”. Nowadays, there are many surf forecast books on the market and a plethora of information available.
10. Practice Yoga and Pilates, improve your eating habits and increase your lung capacity. Stretching, relaxation and increasing the amount of air that your lungs can absorb before a fall is as important as creating a relaxed mindset when riding big waves.