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Mutant slabs and sustainable growing with Fergal Smith

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By Jan Bernard

What comes to your mind when you think of Ireland? Green landscapes, Leprechaun's, or the traditional Irish Pub where you can enjoy a cold Guiness while listening to Molly Mallone? There are many things we could mention, but probably the wave quality and hardcore surfers that charge mutant slabs will not figure when we draw the first question to a random surfer.

However in the past years, Ireland has become one of Europes top surfing epicenters.   Images of waves like Mullaghmore, Aliens and other bone crushing waves are becoming viral on the web.  But really, who in they’re right mind would even attempt paddling out. Besides the brain freezes, harsh weather conditions, slabs that have broken surfers backs, there is still a group of Irish surfers that live for days like these.

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One of the best is Fergal Smith.  He knows this breaks like the palm of his hand and has made a name for himself in the international surfing community.  He charges waves most of us mortals would not even consider looking at.  Besides surfing, he has been promoting organic growing.  "Eat healthy and eat what you produce".  Some of his friends consider him quite a character.  We were lucky to get in touch with Fergal and let him share his experience with us.

1. ¿How did the surf scene began in Ireland, and how did you get drawn into surfing?

The surf scene was very small only 10/15 years ago. It was a small crew of guys around the country who just loved surfing, there was no surf scene back then and you weren't cool for doing it. I got into it through my dad Chris giving it ago to have a break from working in the garden. We went Achill Island every summer and that’s were my brother my dad and I got into it.

2.  When did you realize you could become a professional surfer, and where has your surfboard taken you?

We were all big into hill walking and anything outdoors really but I guess around 14/15 I really just wanted to surf a more than anything. I never looked at it from a professional point of view until at a good few years later; I just wanted to go surfing. Even when I had finished school I planned on going surfing and chasing waves all over the world and hoped someone would help me do it but never saw it as a way to make money. The surfboard has brought me all over the world, I am a very lucky boy and I am truly grateful for all surfing has shown me. But it showed me the state of the world we live in and I could not condone my travels anymore so had to put an end to them. 

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3. In the past years Ireland has become well known for its mutant slabs type of waves.  When you surf this waves, wipeouts are not a matter of if but when.  Could you share one of your scariest experiences?

I don’t really think about them, they are scary but they are mistakes. That’s why they happened so I try and learn from them so it won’t happen next time. Surfing is pure fun and I love it that’s what I focus on and you just have to deal with the knocks when they come. I find people driving fast or getting drunk scarier to me then rolling around in the sea.

4.  In one of your webisodes "Growing", you talk about injuries. Broken backs, dislocated shoulders. Some of the waves you and your friends ride could easily terminate your life. How do you mentally prepare to surf this type of breaks? And do you have any special training regimen?

As I said before you are not trying to hurt yourself so I just try and focus on the good things and try and make the right choices so accidents don’t happen. If you have a positive attitude towards a surf and are looking forward to going out rather then thinking of what might go wrong you have a far better chance of having a good surf. I surf as much as I can without a leash when it’s smaller to get used to the idea of not falling off. If you have no leash you really don’t want to fall off so you are really aware of every decision you make. This should be they way your thinking in heavy waves, you want to be making your waves so the more you get used to that idea the more likely it will happen. I used to train a lot and had more injuries then I do now. I swear the best way to prevent an injury is to be happy in what your doing and be thinking positively that you can do it. Even if you don’t make it you’re in a good frame of mind and your body is not tense or stressed. That would be my biggest bit of advise to anyone if it doesn't feel right don’t do it there will always be another wave.

5.  Could you tell us more about your recent project "Growing", how did you come up with the idea, what are your thoughts about it?

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The "Growing" series came about through a friend Owen Davies who knows a great guy called Chris from Line 9. I only wanted to be involved with the project if I could film a lot about gardening and people trying to live sustainably. Chris was all for it so we said lets give it a go. Its pretty full on having a clip going out every two weeks but at the same time lets us cover lots of different topics that otherwise may be filmed. My brother Kevin is the star of the show really as he is the one who is making it happen. He is doing the filming editing and making it work in general I just do what I'm doing really.

6.  Surfing waves in Ireland must be quite a challenge. The window of opportunity between choppy seas and a perfect glassy line-up are very rare.  How do you time it to get those classic sessions?  

The key for scoring epic sessions is a lot of patience and a lot of trial and error. Living close to the ocean in Clare helps, as you can be pretty on it when the windows do appear. The key is knowing your spots you like to surf and then just waiting for the right conditions.

7.  If you could surf any wave in the world, where would you go?

I have travelled a lot and my favourite place to surf is here in Ireland for sure. Nowhere will ever compare to home and the connection you have with the place where you live. I love the waves here more than anywhere else and that’s one of the reasons I don’t travel anymore.

8.  Mickey Smith and you are good friends.  How did you guys team up, and could you share some of your experiences working with him?

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Yeah Mickey and I are real good friends, we have know each other for 10 years or so now. Mickey has been travelling to Ireland for a long time chasing waves with his bodyboarding mates. I first met him at a great spot near Sligo. I was only young but I was on the same buzz as he was with waves and we instantly got alone real well and started hanging out on swells. He then moved over to Ireland a few years later and since then we have shared far to many cold session together to even go into it. Mickey has taught me most of what I know in heavy waves, he has a deep understanding and knowledge around heavy water and I have always been learning from him. He has an ability to fill you full of confidence that you never thought you had. I would have never ridden half the waves I have if it was not for Mickey's kind words of motivation or just his crazy laughter! I would like to thank him for all those experiences; most people tell you can’t do things, with Mick there is always a way if it looks worth doing. We are all in deferent stages in our lives with babies and different projects going on but we always gravitate to heavy waves when they return to our shore. That bond of heavy waves will never leave us and I look forward to the next session.

9.    Do you have any special quiver of surfboards for the slabby type of waves?

I have all sorts of different boards for different waves. I am always changing and trying to ride cruiser smoother boards in heavy waves. I love riding single fins these days they are not as easy in heavy late dopes but if you are positioned correctly and your timing is right you can flow in sweet. When you’re on the wave I love the simple feel it makes you go totally with the flow of the wave and not try and force anything. I ride a lot if twin fins as well they go so fast and have no drag, which I love. They are great on fast long barreling waves. 

For shorter heavier waves I use small boards to fit in the curve, but I often use a bodyboard. It's not being lazy (or maybe bit is!), it's a simple matter of the right board for the situation. I have tried enough times to know when it's functional or not to try and take of on a surfboard. On really heavy slabby waves the bodyboard is the right craft for me anyway.

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2. What's next for Fegal Smith? 

My partner Sally and I are having a baby in a few weeks. So that is the biggest thing I've got going on in the future after that the garden is really my biggest project. It was our first year starting our community garden and it has taken off. I am going to be there whenever I get a chance and the waves are not all time. I live in Clare near some amazing waves so whenever they turn on I try and be there for my fix of good waves. It's a really nice mix of family life garden and waves. It's an exciting time for me and I'm enjoying every bit if it.

Thanks for your time Fergal, saludos y buenas olas!  
Special thanks to Fergal Smith, Mickey Smith, Matt Barr, Line 9 and Kevin Smith for making this interview possible. 
Follow Fergal and Mickey Smith 
Fergal:  www.fergalsmith.com
Mickey: INSTAGRAM  @mickeysmithetc @thedecadebook 
www.mickeysmith.ie

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At the start of the 2015 season, we will change our name to the World Surf League (WSL).

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To the ASP community

We’re making this change because we believe the new name is easier to understand, and gets us on a better track to serve our fans, athletes and partners, and to grow the great sport of professional surfing worldwide.

There’s been a lot of change in the last two years. Part of it you can see, such as new venues and enhanced live broadcasts. Some of it is behind the scenes. All of it is driven by the twin goals of preserving the heritage and culture of surfing while, at the same time, creating an even better foundation to grow our sport in the future.

We want you to know that changing our name was a carefully considered decision for us. We felt it was important to share this idea with as many people in the ASP community as we could, from athletes to past world champions to event partners. In the end, we were greatly comforted by the fact that not a single person we spoke with opposed changing names to the World Surf League. Not one.

This is a decision we’ve made with our community and you can see their reactions for yourself.

We understand that for many of you reading this, the letters “ASP” have significant meaning and that this news might be unsettling. We hope you will give us the benefit of the doubt and that, over time, you will come to see this change as positive for the sport we all love. At the end of the day, professional surfing’s DNA remains intact: we’re about the world’s best surfers in the world’s best waves. That will never change.

From day one, our commitment to you has been that we will do everything in our power to improve the overall experience for fans, athletes and partners. Of course, we still have a lot of work to do, but we are confident that we are heading in the right direction.

We want to salute everyone upon whose shoulders we stand, from the creators of the ASP to their forefathers at what was originally known as the International Professional Surfers (IPS). It was the hard work of all of these people that provided the platform that we all share today and it is with them, and with you, that we look forward to ushering in the new era of the World Surf League.

Sincerely,

Paul Speaker
Chief Executive Officer

Kristal Hernandez: Super Surf Girl And 2014 National Champion

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By: Isaac Avila

Translation: Heido Sundstrom

Surfing has grown considerably in recent years and there are more and more children and young people starting to practice it. Many do it for sport, for fashion, or for the lifestyle, but then there are some that practice surfing as a vocation, for competition, for a challenge, for passion and for the love of the sea. Such is the case with Kristal Hernandez Bello, a dark-haired, petite girl with great skills and talent in this extreme sport. Originally from Zihuatanejo, Guerrero, Kristal is an ocean girl with a great story that has motivated many. She’s the state champion, has been the national champion twice, and has also represented Mexico in world surfing championships. Today, Kristal shares part of her story with the readers of Planeta Surf.

 

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FAMILY

My family has always been close to the ocean. Since I can remember, I’ve grown up around the beach. My grandparents worked in the ocean and my father is a fisherman, so I learned to love the ocean. I have a few uncles that are surfers and, one day, I got to watch them surf the waves with their boards and I became fascinated. Since then, at the age of thirteen, I wanted to learn how to surf. My mother’s name is Maria de Lourdes Bello Flores and my father is named Juan Manuel Hernandez Magaña. My sister’s name is Nelcy Saray and I have a 6-month-old daughter named Kelly Brigette Palacios Hernandez with my partner, Carlos Palacios Sanchez, who practices BMX.

 

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MY FIRST BOARD

The day I got my first board was very special for me. I really wanted to learn how to surf and had told my dad but he refused because he knew or had seen surfers do some wrong things and it had created a bad image of surfing in his mind. So, I begged my mom and said that I wanted to learn how to surf and, one day, a few days before my Birthday, my mom told me that she wanted to give me something... After my Birthday, she gave me my first board and I cried from excitement because it was the best gift ever. I couldn’t believe it! I fell asleep that night hugging my board and had all kinds of dreams that night—a few of them have even come true. The next day, I took my board to Playa la Madera and from there, learned how to surf.

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LEARNING TO SURF

I learned how to surf with a group of friends. I think everyone learned like that and I also watched a lot of videos and put them in slow motion to see how the surfers surfed. I asked those that did tricks for advice and they more or less told me how to do them.

THE CHALLENGE OF COMPETITION

You know, those who already knew how to surf gave me a hard time, and more so for being a woman, I imagine. They said I wasn’t going to learn and always tried to compete with me in the water, stealing waves. After that, I started trying harder and since there were more guys than girls in the water, I competed against them and sometimes even won.    

 

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SEARCHING FOR WAVES

Kristal is a local from Playa Majahua and, in addition to enjoying different beaches in Zihuatanejo, has surfed the waves of Acapulco, Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, Oaxaca, San Miguel, Ensenada, Baja California, Michoacan, Mazatlan and Peru.

MY EXPERIENCE IN ZICATELA

I’ve surfed waves in various beaches around Zihuatanejo and when I went to Puerto Escondido for the first time, I went straight to Playa Zicatela to see its big and powerful waves. I saw it as a challenge, since, from where I’m from, the waves aren’t as big. As soon as I began paddling out, my fear became my dream and I said, “If I can overcome my fears, I will achieve my dreams.” I liked it because, even though I had never surfed something like Zicatela, I managed to do it.

 

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FAVORITE TRICK

I like cutbacks, tubes, aerials, and especially the vertical and radical hits.

SURFING IS MY SPORT

I usually try to surf three times a week and, if there’s time, every day. Sometimes I stay all day and only get out to eat. 

 

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NATIONAL CHAMPION

I’m the current national champion in the open category that I won in Lazaro Cardenas, Michoacan in 2014. I really liked this year’s National Games because I hadn’t really surfed in over a year and still challenged myself to compete and, luckily, won the national championship.

NATIONAL SELECTION

My first contest outside of Mexico was in Peru during the Quiksilver ISA World Junior Surfing Championship in 2011, in Punta Hermosa. I really enjoyed representing my country and did it with a lot of pride and enthusiasm. Even though it was my first world contest, I was the last competitor on my team to get eliminated in the third round of the playoffs. Mexico ended up placing 17 out of 27 countries.

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MY MOTHER—MY INSPIRATION

My mom is my inspiration, my pride, and my role model and has cheered my on and given me the best example of fighting for what you want. She is a sign painter, knows how to do many things and nobody has ever taught her. She has the capacity to face or be on par with an educated painter because, even though she hasn’t gone to school or anything, she knows a lot. 

In surfing, I admire Kelly Slater and Carissa Moore.

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MY DREAMS

My dream is to be among the best surfers in the world. Also, to travel and surf different waves around the world, have a surf shop and school where kids or people that want to surf can come and find support so they can get motivated and develop as a surfer. 

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AN ANECTDOTE

One day, I went to Las Gatas to surf. It was pretty bad weather and they had closed the port for the boats. I really like to surf there and there were really big waves that day. I had a great time surfing but the trouble was, I didn’t ask my dad for permission and he came looking for me with his belt and I got in trouble. [Laughs]

SPONSORS

Pargos Bikinis and Orozco Surfboards, who are going to send my two boards, sponsor me.

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Raul Medina: National Champion (Open Category)

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Interview by: Mario Dillanes

Translation: Heido Sundstrom

It hasn’t been an easy road for Raul Medina. Out of those that have surfed beaches like Zicatela or Sayulita, he’s found it hard to receive the attention that his surfing deserves. Thanks to his determination to become the best, however, Medina takes advantage of every opportunity presented to him and this year, after sixteen years since gaining his first National Surf Champion title, the crown has been returned to him and, once again, he is the National Surf Champion in the Open Category. This is a good example of how Medina lives his life: without fear and ready to give it everything he’s got, despite everyone telling him that it’s too late. Medina achieved his championship title once again, thanks to his tenacity and never giving up on his beloved sport of surfing. 

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Planeta Surf: What’s your full name?
Raul Medina: Jorge Raul Medina Morales.

PS: Your date of Birth?
RM: August 17th, 1981.

PS: Where were you born?
RM: Playa Azul, Michoacan

PS: Where did you start surfing?
RM: In Playa Azul, Michoacan.

PS: Years surfing?
RM: 24 years.

PS: When was the first time you were crowned National Champion?
RM: In Acapulco when I was 18. It was 1998 or 1999; I can’t remember the exact date.

PS: What did it take to become National Champion?

RM: Working hard every day, training, a good diet, effort, dedication and the desire to be champion.

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PS: What are your future plans?
RM: Go to the world surfing championships and do a good job representing Mexico, and taking advantage of this opportunity. I’d also like to attend upcoming international events.

PS: Has being the National Champion opened up new doors?

RM: Yes, it’s a good achievement, where everyone knows who you are. People get to know you and you can find new sponsors and respond to those who are already sponsoring you.

PS: Who are your current sponsors?

RM: Fish Mazatlan, Olea Surfboards, El Roots and El Yate Nightclub. A big shout-out and thanks to them for believing in me and for all their support. 

PS: What do you think Mexican surfing need to really take off?

RM: More support is needed for athletes to be able to attend events like the WCT, the WQS and high-level events that motivate Mexican surfing. As in previous events, like the contests in Los Cabos and Acapulco, it makes us realize the good level that exists.

PS: Who makes up your family?

RM: My two sons, Jorge Raul and Andy Kale (ages 10 and 5), my eternal girlfriend and life partner, my dogs, my boards, my leashes...

PS: What’s a normal day like for you?

RM: I wake up at 6am, go jogging on the beach with my dogs, observe the waves, have a little chat with friends to decide the place we’re going to surf that day, eat a light breakfast, then go surfing for a few hours. After surfing, I go pick up my kids from school and we return home to make lunch for the three of us. We eat, take a little nap to rest and in the afternoons, I hit the beach again. If the waves are good, I go surfing. If not, I go fishing or exercise, or hang out at the beach with my kids, who are also drawn to this sport and are starting to surf. 

PS: Do you do any other sports?

RM: Soccer.

PS: Where do you dream of surfing one day?

RM: Indonesia.

PS: Have you ever been injured in the water?

RM: I’ve hurt my knee twice. It’s a pain that I wouldn’t wish on anyone, but fortunately, I’ve never been in any super dangerous situations, except maybe escaping from drowning in big waves or seeing sharks up close before a contest, but, thankfully, nothing too serious.

PS: How are the waves in Playa Azul?
RM: The best time to surf is during September, October, and November. The beach is open water, with a sandy bottom, and there are all different types of waves that are constantly changing. 

PS: Where do you normally go surfing?

RM: Playa Azul, Rio Nexpa and El Rancho.

PS: Where’s your favorite place to surf in Mexico?

RM: Barra de la Cruz and Scorpion Bay. 

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Escocia Epic

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Filmmaker Chris McClean, photographer Al Mackinnon, and surfers Noah Lane and Matt Smith had been shooting a project for the brand Finisterre on the mainland of Scotland when the forecast turned bad. Not ones to be discouraged, they hopped in a boat and headed out to the islands, tiny outposts in the raging north Atlantic that gets massive swells and insane conditions when the winds line up just right. Under the glow of the northern lights they set out in search of heavy surf and great pubs. They were not disappointed on either account. The islands have an ever-changing climate and notoriously fickle set ups where winds and tides limit the optimum surfing window to torturously short stretches. Friendly islanders shared waves, farmers shared farmyards and paths to coastal crooks, the hills told stories and fishermen offered beds.

Seven boards were snapped amongst the skerries, Al Mack had to guard his treasured bonzer from Matt and Noah’s advances. Chris' trusty 6’3 was even called into action before the whole crew finally retreated to the mainland, broken with hangovers and fatigue. It wasn’t Chris' first trip to the isles but it was certainly the most memorable.