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The Bar Between Two Waters...In Search Of The Perfect Peak

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By: Isaac Avila

Translation by: Heido Sundstrom

Barra de Coyuca, Guerrero – Armed with nothing but a backpack containing all the necessary provisions for a short cruise, we arrived at the taxi station to catch a ride that would take us from downtown Acapulco to the secret spot approximately half an hour away. Our taxi was getting ready to leave, but waiting on one more person to fill the quota of five people, plus the driver. Soon, we loaded the colectivo and set of towards our destination—La Barra de Coyuca.

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After driving down the Pie de la Cuesta boulevard, with its endless construction and repair that has taken years with no end in sight, we finally arrived at the arch that welcomes visitors to Pie de la Cuesta; we were that much closer to our destination.

A makeshift sign welcomed us to this beautiful beach and lagoon that isn’t as widely promoted or even developed as Punta Diamante, but for what matters to us—the waves—it’s almost beneficial, as there aren’t any big buildings to obstruct the offshore breeze coming from the mountains.

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La Barra de Coyuca, located in the town of Coyuca de Benites, is a quiet and very relaxed fishing village, a place of rest for the locals and for surfers and bodyboarders, a place of action and paradise.

The waves from Pie de la Cuesta to la Barra are known as powerful, hollow, tube waves and better suited for bodyboarding as opposed to surfboards, but we heard from the bodyboarders that it was possible to surf there and we ended up seeing a few peaks in the distance, different from what we were accustomed to, with approximately fifteen bodyboarders and about five surfers in the water. 

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The waves break over a sandy bottom in peaks that create a short ramp, allowing for tricks and for catching tubes. When the waves get closer to shore, however, they become pretty extreme and can give you a “yoli”, as we say around here, or a big wipeout—the price of the adventure, the adrenaline, and the passion to ride the wave.

The water is crystal clear and clean, without the pollution that comes with too many visitors. The beach is on open water so one should take precautions when they go in the ocean. The sunset is incredible and this is one of the best places to enjoy this marvel of nature. “Watch the sun set behind the sea...” Relax in a hammock and get your fill of seafood at the restaurants and food stands along the immense shore, the local favorite dish being “pescado a la talla” or “al mojo de ajo”, accompanied by your favorite drink. 

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Crossing the street, you’ll find the ‘cream’ of the Coyuca ‘crop’—the lagoon, with boat tours and fishermen in search of the famous cuatetel to be cooked up in a tasty broth. In “La Barra” you’ll find everything you’re looking for, be it rest or action in the lagoon or the sea.  

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Historic Swell In Puerto Escondido

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By: Angelo Lozano

Photos: Edwin Morales, Daniel Nava

Translation: Heido Sundstrom

On Friday, the first day of the swell, I caught a great wave but stayed inside the tube and wasn’t able to exit successfully, snapping my 8’2” Linden gun in the process. It was only the second session I had had with that board and the first wave that I had caught that day. Even though I broke my board, though, it was worth it just to feel the sensation of riding that wave. I went back in the water that day but with the bigger 9’4” Linden board that I had. The waves still weren’t big enough for that board but it was worth a try. Plus, I didn’t have any other board suited for the size of the waves and I would’ve rather had a board that was too big rather than not big enough that day. I was lucky enough that the first wave I caught with the 9’4” board (also the first time I’d used it), was a tube that I exited successfully. I grabbed another one after that then called it a day.  

 

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The next day (Saturday) we had the biggest swell and I returned to the water with the same 9’4” board that was now perfect for the 12 – 15 ft. waves (20 – 35 ft. at the face). There were a lot of people in the water, including some of the best big-wave surfers like Greg and Rusty Long, Shane Dorian, “Skindog” Collins, Mark Healey, plus a ton of other pros and local surfers like Coco Nogales, Oscar Moncada, Jimel Corzo, Marcial, Cesar Petroni, Gregorio Short, Angelo Donnano, and Aaron Silver, among others. I waited for three hours without catching any waves before finally nabbing a good one around 12:30 in the afternoon. Thankfully, it was a great wave that took me all the way to shore. 

 

On Sunday, the consistency of the bigger waves dropped a little but they were still a good size. I caught various waves that day and was feeling more comfortable. Honestly, I had been kind of nervous and was paying a lot of respect to the ocean, especially on Saturday when the ocean was showing its strength and cranking out waves with a lot of force. On Sunday morning, I caught a big left and dropped in after hearing everyone shouting. It ended up being a really good wave—as good as the previous day, but with an even more critical drop, which Edwin posted a photo of on Surfline. 

I want to thank Planeta Surf for the interview and the support and to all the people that have supported me online, as well as my friends and family, and, above all, my sponsors: Reef Mexico, Bankaool, Monster Energy, Linden Surfboards and Oakley.      

 

 

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Fergal Smith Gets Tubed on one of the Biggest Mullaghmore Paddle Days Ever

FERGAL


Filmmaker Chris McClean traveled to Ireland this winter as the Atlantic went ballistic with three giant storms in two weeks. There were power cuts, floods, and cancelled ferries. And some great waves. Mullaghmore reared its ugly head for one of the biggest paddle sessions the spot has ever seen and Fergal Smith was on it. Afterwards Fergal headed south with Tom Lowe and Ollie O'Flaherty to an unnamed slab to snatch a couple of the more 'mellow' ones as the bodyboarders, including Tommy Gillespie, went mental on the bonkers ones.

On The Hunt For Uncharted Waves with Oli Adams and Micah Lester

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Taking professional athletes from action sports, this episode features surfers Micah Lester and Oli Adams, as the pair seek undiscovered surfing spots in the Outer Hebrides. 

The pair only had a two day window to film in so, as Oli said, they were slightly 'at the mercy of the surf gods', but they managed to maximize the spots they could get to with the Jeep and got some great shots on the waves. 

After watching BBC 1's Coast Oli became infatuated with Britain's coastline and threw the towel in with competing after being crowned English Open Champion, and began travelling the World to search for secret spots and unridden waves in Britain and Ireland. 

"It really is a magical experience"

 

Typically, on the day of filming the swell wasn't great! But the video shows off the picturesque landscape of the Orkney Islands and reveals an insight into Oli's lifestyle and incredible story of wave hunting.

And read more about the trip here: surfeuro.pe