Greg long, winner of ¨The wave of the summer ¨

(presented by nike)
By Luis del Rio
Revised: Heido Sundstrom

PS: First of all, Greg, your general impressions, how do you feel about the event and its format?

GREG LONG: I think “The Wave of the Summer” and “The Wave of the Winter” is a great concept, to reward the best ride brings a lot of recognition to places that really deserve it, you know, like Puerto. They also have one on the North Shore of Oahu, which is obviously the epicenter of professional surfing in the winter, but the other choice would be Puerto, which, in my opinion, is equal to that of the North Shore.    As far as the Southern Hemisphere’s summer goes, Puerto is one of, if not the heaviest and most dangerous waves. So, it’s great that it brings that kind of recognition and rewards those surfers who go out there and ride their very best waves. There’s always concern that maybe some people are going to go out there, not just with this one, but with any type of competition that puts money into one big wave or, you know, one ride of the year. You’re going to get people out there for the wrong reasons, which I know is always a big concern with the big-wave awards that we have every year in California, and the same thing could happen here. But, in the end, the ocean takes care of itself and when its really big or when its really heavy, it’s the guys who really love it that do it and only because they love it is the reason they’re out there getting the waves and surfing. If you look at the final best rides, it was the guys who are always surfing down here and who are always out there regardless; you know, like Coco and Oscar.

PS: Or like the Peruvian surfers?

GL: Alvaro and Gabriel? Oh yeah! They’ve been here before when it’s big and, you know, they do it only because they love it! And that’s really what it comes down to at the very end. And as far as the competition as a whole, I really think it’s great that they reward the ones who are out there doing it, because they are the ones who are always going to ride it all the way to the top.

PS: And how do you think it compares with what they’ve accomplished so far with The Wave of the Winter? In terms of wave-quality…

GL: Well, Puerto is one of the heaviest waves in the world. I’m fortunate enough that I get to travel 12 months out of the year and get to choose when and where I go surfing. I spend time in the North Shore in the winter and I love it because it has some of the most incredible waves. And here, Puerto does as well. The only difference is the way it breaks, over in Hawaii when you paddle out to Pipeline or Backdoor, you know the wave is going to be coming to you in a certain area, whereas here, it’s so much more challenging because it moves in and out, or it moves up and down the beach. So, it’s far more challenging and certainly one of the most challenging waves I’ve ever surfed, which is what brings me back here every single year. You never know when it’s going to be good, or when the wave is going to come to you and it has that potential. You see the waves that were ridden here and they are some of the most incredible tubes, and if you look at the best waves from—and no discredit to the North Shore obviously, because you know, pipeline is sooo heavy and it’s breaking over reef, so it’s a whole different world—but, as far as the tubes that were ridden, there were some that were very comparable. If you look at Gabriel’s wave, for example, the size of the wave and heaviness of the barrel, maybe not as long, but as strong and as intense of a barrel that you will find anywhere in the world, whether it’s on reef or on sand. So, I think it’s really good to bring attention to the amount of power or how difficult it really is.

PS: What do you think about Nike being here? Surfline has always been here, but what do you think about companies like Nike being present in the surf world, sponsoring events like this one and willing to invest their money into the surf industry?

GL: The very same question and concern comes up, not just here, but everywhere in the surf world with Nike and surfing! (Laughs)  You know, when they first started coming into the surf scene in California (which is the place this industry pretty much revolves around) everyone was like woooow! Hang on, wait just a second...but they’re here, they’re coming through and, you know, in my opinion, they’re doing a great job. Every event they have ever done has turned out perfect. They take good care of their athletes, they take good care of the people involved and they do it respectfully. In my opinion, any company that’s willing to come in and put money back into the surf industry, into the surfers who are a part of it, supporting a lot of young athletes coming up (which is something I’ve seen…) and with competitions like this, well, I think it’s really great! I mean, obviously people are going to worry if Nike is a surf company or not, but there’s actually a big number of companies that didn’t originate in surfing but came over from, say, skateboarding and people don’t worry about them. Just because it’s Nike and because Nike comes from the actual sporting world, then people worry! (Laughs) But I don’t! If they want to come and do well with the community and support the surf world, which I know they are, then that’s just great!

PL: The reason I ask is because, with the results this year’s competition offered, I think it’s going to make a big noise, and maybe everyone will want to be here next year, going after your crown! A lot of people are going to step up. I think a lot of people missed it just because they didn’t know about it! But, there’s always next year… What do you think, Greg?

GL: Yes! Maybe more big-wave surfers are going to come down next year, and yes, it could get more crowded, but it will also bring more tourism, especially to Puerto Escondido, and give the local surfers the opportunity to be on the same playing field as some of the best surfers in the world. Because, the way I see it, you can bring the best surfers in the world over here, on a big swell, and have them try to get the wave of the summer, but Oscar Moncada is going to paddle out there and probably make them look like beginners.   

PS: Do you think he’s going to learn from them?

GL: Nooo, I think they’re going to learn from him! (Laughs) And they're going to be there going ¨holy shit! ¨ (Laughs)     And in that sense, I think it’s only doing good that Oscar Moncada can go out there and prove he can surf better than all these top-ranked professionals. I’ve seen him do it every single time he goes out there so, it might bring more people. But, I think it’ll be good because it gives all these young, local kids the opportunity to see the best and surf with the best, while, at the same time, the best local surfers can surf with the best and be seen on the same level as these top professionals, because that’s where they deserve to be…

PS: A lot of people have been talking about this, not just us in the media, but all of whom are here and love surfing. The lifeguards mention it a lot and it’s basically common knowledge among the surf community here about the support you constantly offer and give to Puerto’s lifeguard operations and its surf community. Also, what you did do to help with the terrible surf accident that happened recently, the one related to our good friend from Brazil, Aldemir Calunga. People talk about how you jumped right in to help come up with a fast solution. I mean, what do you have in your heart that makes you just pull $15,000 dollars out of your own pocket to fly an injured surfer from Puerto to somewhere that he would have a better chance at making it back to life? Is it the surfer in you?

GL: Well, it wouldn’t have mattered if he was my friend or not because we’re all in this world together, friends or not, surfers or not. And your obligation as a human-being is to treat others with respect, the same respect that you’d like for yourself, giving to others what you would also like to receive. The way I saw it, yes, I’m friends with Calunga, but that’s a whole other story. I met him about six years ago, very briefly, and then I met him again two days before the accident and we talked for about an hour because we both have a really good mutual friend. But, what it comes down to is that, if it were me in that accident and my life depended on someone being there and helping me get to where I needed to go to receive the proper medical attention, I would only hope and pray that somebody would be there to do that for me. And, like I said, we are all in this world to help one another. And money...to me, it’s not what defines my happiness. Yes, of course it helps get material things, but it’s not what brings happiness.

PS: Today, we heard there’s good news about Calunga, can you tell us anything?

GL: Oh, yeah! He’s doing great! He’s walking, talking…a true warrior. Everything has gone really perfect.

…And my contribution to the lifeguards, well, you know, the beach that they have to watch and take care of is one of the most dangerous in the world, so their job is really tough. I’m only doing what I think we should all do, which is to support the warriors.

PS: Have you ever been rescued by them?

GL: I’ve never actually had to be recued by them, but a lot of my friends have been rescued or helped by them with injuries many times; they just helped my brother with his dislocated shoulder. I really hope the day never comes when I might have to be rescued by them, but you never know! What I do know is that I can trust them. Then again, it doesn’t matter whether it’s me that’s the one who needs the assistance and all that proper medical equipment, or one of my friends, or anybody else, because the important thing is that they have all the equipment and all the support possible. I’m actually upset with myself because I think that’s something we should’ve done years ago, making sure they have all the proper training and medical equipment necessary to perform such a difficult task as saving a surfer’s life here. But, you know, we’re all learning day-to-day from what we do…

PS: Well, the surfing community here in Puerto is grateful for your support and are very happy with Calunga’s outcome…

GL: As am I, I just can’t tell you how proud I am of all these lifeguards and the way they handled themselves during this accident (and so many others). These guys are some of the best lifeguards in the world!

PS: As surfers, we’ve all talked about this, and most of us think the waves you ride are like a “big-wave riding clinic”, the way you set up and the way you drop in. We’ve watched it over and over—a thing of beauty. There must be a lot of study, training and preparation behind it, no?

GL: Yes, there’s a lot of study and preparation behind it. You have to be well prepared for those conditions.

PS: We talked about the big left you took (you mentioned it wasn’t deep enough (laughs)), but that drop was really textbook big-wave riding. How do you prepare for that?

GL: Yes, there’s a lot of preparation, time, study and training. Also, big-wave riding is my greatest love and my greatest passion and I know the consequences and also what can happen in those conditions if I fall down or wipeout. So, the way I see it, it’s about managing the risk of being out there. There’s a lot of variables out there   that you just can’t control so, all you can do is prepare.

PS: Okay! Greg long, good friend, outstanding big-wave surfer and winner of the 2012 Wave of the Summer, thank you very much for your time and for this interview. Will we be seeing you next year to defend your crown?
      
GL: Of course! I’ll be here next year and every other chance I get. Thanks Wilo! Take care and muchas gracias a todos en Puerto Escondido!